Spain’s hidden villages and untamed landscapes

Spain has long been associated with sunny beaches, vibrant cities, and world-famous cuisine. While Barcelona, ​​Madrid and Ibiza are famous for a reason, the true spirit of Spain is often found in their far-flung corners. One of the regions I love best is northern Spain, where its green mountains, rugged coastline and medieval villages provide a completely different perspective. It doesn’t get as many visitors as the hotspots further south but it’s just as beautiful in my opinion.

If you want to see a quieter side of Spain, consider getting off the beaten tourist track and heading north after your trip Trip to Madrid. Spend a few days in Madrid (which is amazing) and then train north for a week or more to wander along trails carved into the mountains by the Romans, explore deserts that few travelers know, and hike to villages where traditions continue centuries after the fall of empires.

Today, I want to share three destinations that I love: Las Medulas, Bardenas Reales, and Santillana del Mar. Each offers a unique blend of history, natural beauty and cultural immersion, and each is accessible enough from Madrid.

1. Las Medulas

Nearly two thousand years ago, Roman engineers transformed this landscape in search of gold. Using a technique called “mountain demolition,” they directed water through tunnels to demolish entire hillsides, exposing gold deposits in the area. The result is a surreal landscape of jagged red cliffs, hollows, and canyons, softened by forests of chestnut trees and dotted with walking trails. Today, Las Medulas is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a testament to human ingenuity and the enduring power of nature. It’s easy to imagine the work and vision required to recreate this rugged terrain by hiking through Roman canyons and galleries.

What I love about Las Médulas is the quiet. Even in high season, you can find stretches of trails where the only sounds are your footsteps and the rustling of leaves. The views from the hills are stunning, and the smell of chestnuts lingers in the air. It’s a place that makes you slow down, not just to take photos but to let the history and stillness sink in.

Landmarks and paths

• Senda de las Valenhas (4 km loop): This gentle path passes through shaded chestnut groves and former openings of Roman tunnels. It’s perfect for an easy morning walk that still gives you an idea of ​​the scope of the site. Stop often to look at the cliffs; The red soil against the greenery makes for stunning photos.
• Mirador de Orellan: A short but steep climb leads to a platform overlooking crimson hills and valleys. Sunset is my favorite time here when the soft light turns the slopes almost orange. There is also a small gallery where you can see how the Romans carved into the rock.
• Galleria d’Orlan: If you enjoy a little adventure, explore a restored mining tunnel. Standing inside, you can imagine the workers tearing up the ground by torchlight.
• Senda Circumferential (14 km loop): For hikers, this trail goes around the entire archaeological area. You will pass secluded forests, small farms and the occasional wild boar track. It’s long but not difficult, and you’ll often have it yourself.
• Castro de Chano: A short drive away, this pre-Roman fortress shows that the story of Las Medulas extends far beyond Roman history.
• Mirador de Rirejo: A lesser-known lookout point with a quiet seat and sweeping views across chestnut woods and distant hills.

Practical details
Where do you live?Ponferrada is only half an hour away and has a wide range of hotels and guest houses.

Best season: Autumn for golden foliage and fresh air. Spring brings mild weather and blooming wildflowers.

advice: Bring water and a snack, especially if you plan to take long trips. Maps or a GPS app will help you stick to marked routes.

2. Bardenas Reales

Heading south from Pamplona, ​​the scenery changes dramatically. Rolling farmlands give way to dry plains and eventually a semi-desert of ocher plateaus and dramatic valleys. This is Pardenas Reales, a 42,000-hectare natural park in Navarre. This place is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve and an area of ​​active military use, yet pastoralists still graze their herds across the plains, and wildlife such as griffon vultures and foxes thrive. The park’s isolation means you often have most of the trails to yourself.

The first time I visited, I was surprised by how diverse the landscape was. From a distance, it looks barren, but once inside, you notice the details: undulating patterns in the mud, tough flowers clinging to the cracks, a sheepdog trotting after a flock. The feeling of space is exhilarating. It’s a destination that invites wanderlust and rewards those who take their time.

Landmarks and roads

• Castelldeterra: This slender rocky peak is the symbol of the park. Photographers love her at dawn when the soft light highlights her delicate form. Even if you’re not gunning for the perfect shot, it’s helpful to watch the shadows change across the landscape.
• La Blanca Baja loop (34 km): Driving or biking along this trail gives you a complete tour of the central area of ​​the park. Stop at the overlooks to admire the valleys, mesas and wide basins where storms sometimes leave shallow pools.
• Pesquera and El Ralon Excursion: This moderate route climbs into the heart of the Badlands. Expect rugged trails and dramatic views from the top of the hills. Bring plenty of water, as there is no shade once you leave the lowlands.
• Pilatus balcony: A high vantage point where griffon vultures move on warm air currents. Watching them soar over the valleys is an unforgettable experience.
• Cabezo de las Cortinillas: A quieter formation reached via a short path. The colors of the rocks change from light cream to copper depending on the sunlight.
• Rio Aragon Pass: Follow the green ribbon along the river for a softer side of the park. It is good for bird watching and a break from the dry heat.

Practical details
Where do you live?: Tudela is the nearest town, with comfortable lodgings and excellent local restaurants serving Navarra cuisine.

Best season: Visit in spring or early fall for pleasant temperatures. Wildflowers appear after the rains, adding splashes of color to the plain. Summer can be very hot.

advice: There are no services inside the park, so stock up on water, sunscreen, and snacks in advance.

3. Santillana del Mar

Santillana del Mar is one of my favorite spots in northern Spain. It is located in Cantabria, about 30 minutes from the coast. Its cobblestone streets, well-preserved medieval architecture and charming squares make it one of the most picturesque villages in the region. The city also serves as a gateway to one of Europe’s most important prehistoric sites, the Altamira Cave, famous for its Paleolithic paintings. Wandering its narrow streets is like stepping back in time, and staying overnight allows visitors to enjoy the tranquility once the day-trippers have left.

What makes Santillana special is how energetic she feels. Despite its old walls, there is nothing dusty about it. Small bakeries sell buttered sobao, shopkeepers greet you as you pass, and horses sometimes wander through the aisles. The rhythm is slow and warm.

Things to see and do

• Collegiate Church of Santa Giuliana: A Romanesque gem with serene cloisters and intricate capitals. Take your time exploring the arches and stone carvings.
• Replica of Altamira Cave: The original cave has been closed to preserve the art, but the replica is impressive. Standing under the roof of bison and horses gives you a glimpse into human ingenuity 14,000 years ago.
• Altamira Museum: A museum next to the cave expands on the prehistoric culture of the area. The exhibits are attractive and family friendly.
• Plaza Mayor: The central square is surrounded by stone houses with wooden balconies. It’s the perfect place for a late afternoon coffee or glass of cider.
• Nearby tracks: You can wander from the village into the surrounding hills where meadows meet oak forests. Some paths continue towards the coast, offering sweeping views of the Cantabrian Sea.
• Cuevas de soblao: Just a short drive away, this cave is filled with stunning stalactites, stalagmites and unusual formations called helices.
• Comillas: A nearby town featuring modern architecture, including Gaudí’s Capriccio, is just 20 minutes away by car.

Practical details
Getting thereBuses leave from Santander or Bilbao in about 45 minutes. Renting a car allows you the freedom to explore the nearby bays and valleys.

Best season: Spring and fall bring moderate temperatures and fewer crowds.

Spain’s main tourist attractions are worthy of attention, but its lesser-known landscapes and cities reveal something richer. They remind us that beyond Spain’s beaches and bustling cities lies a country where history, geography, and everyday life converge into experiences worth keeping. Whether you’re tracing the Roman tunnels at Las Medulas, cycling through the dusty paths of Bardenas, or sipping cider in Piazza Cantabria, every moment adds a new layer to your understanding of Spain.

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